Capital Wines 2009 Kyeema Vineyard Reserve Merlot

This is a wine made in extremely limited quantities - my bottle was numbered 0097 - so you'll need to be quick if you want to snap up some of what is one of Australia's best merlots. This a long way removed from your standard monochromatic merlot with lashings of ripe berry/plummy fruit in harmony with some quality oak. Sure it is smooth and soft, as we expect our merlots to be, but it also has some impressive and sophisticated layers of flavour on the palate, integrated tannins and the potential to age for several years. The alcohol level is just 13.3% despite all those rich flavours - a credit to the team at Capital Wines, a small family company that's been making a pretty big splash recently. www.capitalwines.com.au. $46.

Katnook Estate 2008 Merlot

I'm not a huge fan of Australian merlots generally (we got some dud clones early on) but I really enjoyed this one from winemaker Wayne Stehbens, who has the midas touch with this fickle grape. Unlike many of its siblings this has plenty of character with bold black and red berry flavours in the front row, balanced oak in the second row and soft tannin structure. I really enjoyed the different layers of flavour in the mouth and the assertiveness from a variety that's so often soft and wimpy. Top marks for food friendliness, too. $40.

Hollick 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot

Sometimes you open a bottle of wine that's lipsmackingly good and without thinking about it too much suddenly discover the bottle is empty. That's what happened with this easy-to-drink red blend from one of Coonawarra's best family-owned wineries. You'll find luscious dark berry fruit flavours to the fore with soft tannins and oak very much in the background. Open a bottle of this, roast a leg of lamb and sparks will fly. $24.

The Prince 2007 Merlot

A new label to me from the promising Vino Bambino stable, which has some excellent small producers on its books. There are so many dud Australian merlots around it's a real pleasuree to discover one like this attractive offering from Victoria's Pyrenees district. OK, it's soft and fleshy as you'd expect, but there's also some nice ripe berry characters and some complexity, too. This is a lovely barbecue wine and well priced at $20. www.vinobambino.com.au

Wine by Brad 2007 Cabernet Merlot

Quirky, fun, affordable and extremely easy to drink - that's the best way of summing up the wines from this innovative Margaret River producer. When you get a richly flavoured cab merlot oozing with dark cassis flavours, hints of chocolate and mint with some unobtrusive French oak adding just the right amount of complexity then you have to be impressed, At $18 and just 13.5% alcohol you have to snap some up.

Cow Bombie 2008 Cabernet Merlot

It may be a silly name (Cow Bombie is actually a surf break off the West Australian coast) but there is plenty of serious fun to be had with this good-value, drink-young blend that is just bursting with ripe berry flavours alongside hints of black chocolate and pepper. The perfect wine for when friends drop by. $15.

Elderton 2006 Merlot

Family-owned Barossa winery Elderton has been on the mark with its 2006 estate-range wines; the shiraz and cabernet sauvignon are also outstanding. This is a stellar merlot with attractive brambly characters and plenty happening on the palate. $29.

Shottesbrooke 2006 Merlot

It's rare to stumble across an Australian merlot that is exciting, but this is such a beast. From a reliably good McLaren Vale winery, it offers nice rich berry flavours, softness and persistence with plenty happening on the palate. A real find! $19.95.

Cape Mentelle 2005 Cabernet Merlot "Trinders"

A recent visit to Cape Mentelle underlined the high quality across the range. This is the style of wine every household needs a case of; it has wonderful balance, and is an atypical Australian red given its softness and elegance. Wonderful drinking. $30.